Features - The Irrawaddy
At Gaw Wein Jetty, Squatters Struggle to Rebuild

After a temporary eviction by authorities, port laborers and their families face the daunting task of rebuilding their homes around the Mandalay foreshore.

The Path to a Brighter Future for Burma’s Disabled

A small but determined group left Rangoon by wheelchair on a 17-day journey to raise awareness about rights of people living with disabilities in Burma.

In Kachin State, a Place of Merriment Turns to Mourning

A Myitkyina park once used for celebrations has taken on a more somber air as the civil war in Kachin State grinds on.

The Life of Burmese Male Sex Workers in Chiang Mai

Dozens of young men from poor villages in Shan State work as sex workers in gay show bars in northern Thailand’s largest city.

In Remote Karenni State, a Place of Diversity and Learning

A monastery in Karenni State offers children from a cornucopia of minorities in the region a chance at education that they might otherwise not get.

One Thing on Agenda at Karen Conference: Unity

Hundreds gather at the headquarters of the Democratic Karen Benevolent Army to debate the future of the ethnic Karen people’s rebel armed forces.

Burma’s Story, Told by One Crumbling Building

One apartment building, two stairwells, 12 apartments and their 60 or so residents offer a portrait of Rangoon as Burma stands at a historical precipice.

On the Road to Bagan

The motorway from Rangoon to Bagan is breathtaking and the attractions rewarding, but improving infrastructure will help travelers love Burma even more.

In Burma’s Parliament, What’s on Your Head Matters

Hats hold meaning in Burma’s Parliament, embodying political allegiances, accomplishments and failures of a nation transitioning from a half-century of dictatorship to democracy.

Flickers of Hope, Shadow of Uncertainty for Muslims in Arakan Citizenship Pilot

Rohingya Muslims in Myebon are both hopeful and uncertain as some ostensibly receive citizenship rights for the first time under the government’s national verification program.

Myanmar’s Mother of Nursing

One woman’s journey from a life of privilege to a lifetime of service.

In Rohingya Camp, a Subdued Celebration of Muslim Holiday

Rohingya camp residents in Arakan State’s Myebon hold a quiet celebration of Eid al-Adha, the first time they are allowed to do so since 2012.

Building Bamboo Bikes in Burma

An American couple plan a new project that aims to harness local skills and knowledge to build bamboo bike frames in Myitkyina, Kachin State.

Gaming With a Side of Culture? There’s a Burmese App for That

A team of Burmese videogame developers hopes to use technology to help preserve the country’s cultural traditions and revive its historical heritage.

The Rising Power of Burma’s Women’s Workforce

As Burma lifts long-standing restrictions on labor unions, its largely female industrial workforce is organizing itself to fight for better working conditions and pay.

Burma’s Last Armenians to Pray With Supreme Patriarch

Armenians who worship at the oldest church in Rangoon hope an important religious visitor will help bring them together with the greater Armenian community.

Killer Elephants Creating Ghost Villages in Burma

A combination of land-grabs and deforestation is increasingly bringing elephants and people into conflict at the base of the Pegu mountain range.

Kachin Dam Critic Remains Defiant Despite Being Punished for Speaking Out

Ja Hkawn, a vocal critic of the suspended Myitsone dam project in Kachin State, says she will not rest until the project is permanently shelved

Burmese Boatmen Enslaved by Drugs in Southern Thailand

The hardships experienced by many Burmese fishermen have led to a downward spiral of drug use.

‘It Was a Tragic Scene to See the Dead Bodies of Our Brothers and Sisters’

Twenty six years ago, the Burma Army seized power after a crackdown on a democratic uprising. Two doctors recall how they treated numerous wounded protestors.